La Mezquita Catedral, Cordoba

For the final post of my Alhambra photo-series we  move from Granada to Cordoba and La Mezquita Catedral.  Built on a site that was first a pagan temple then a Visigothic Christian church, the Umayyad mosque is regarded as one of the finest monuments of Islamic architecture.

After the Spanish Reconquista the building was converted into a Roman Catholic church.  A cathedral building was built in the centre of the Islamic structure and this forms the source the anger mentioned in my first post of the series; I appreciate that one religion will always seek to erase or absorb the symbols and structures of another, hence the Islamic building being built on a former pagan and then Christian site.  But to see the garish monstrosity of the Roman Catholic cathedral within the surroundings of the former mosque was to my mind appalling and nothing short of an act of vandalism.  The minaret that once existed has also been replaced by a bell-tower which again sits somewhat jarringly within the context of the Islamic architectural surroundings.

Inside La Mesquita courtyard

The archways were bricked in after the Spanish Reconquista; they once would have been completely open allowing light to flood in to the interior of the structure and worshipers to move freely between the courtyard and the prayer hall.

Christian bell-tower at La Mezquita

One of the doorways on the perimeter of La Mezquita

Hypostyle hall in La Mezquita

Detail of the rich decoration surrounding the mihrab of La Mezquita

Highly ornate dome of the mihrab in La Mezquita

Islamic tile work in La Mezquita

Courtyard in the Jewish quarter of Cordoba

Pool and fountain in the Jewish quarter of Cordoba

Islamic architecture at the Alhambra

Having looked at the Alhambra from afar in my first post, followed by examples of the Islamic tile-work found within the palaces in my second and the Generalife in my third, this fourth post in my Alhambra photo-series takes a closer look at the architectural detail of the palace complex.

"Honeycomb," "stalactite," or "mocárabe" vaulting in the Hall of the Abencerrajes

 

The honeycomb architecture is a wonder.  I have seen this previously in pictures only and they really don’t express the intricacy and quality of the work.  To see it up close takes one’s breath away.

 

Honeycomb roof in detail

Honeycomb and carving in close up

Mind bogglingly stunning relief carving

Juxtaposition of tiles, carving and door

Patio de los Arrayanes (Court of the Myrtles)

Cuarto Dorado

 

This was a difficult shot to get as there were so many people packed into the room.  I knelt down on the floor and waited for a gap to emerge, which one eventually did for just  a second, and I was able to get the shot.  The pool looks very serene and the whole room opens up to sky above, particularly impressive when seen at night and I would certainly recommend the night visit aswell as the day visit.

 

Arch through to the Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions)

Patio de los Leones (Court of the Lions)

 

The Court of the Lions was closed for renovation on our visit so we could only see the top part of the court above the boarding which blocked the view.  I was disappointed by this as the Court of the Lions is meant to be the jewel in the crown of the entire palace complex.  We were able to see the lion statutes which had been removed to another room and cleaned up (no photos allowed though) and they did look better for it.  Maybe We’ll have to go back one day to the see the court restored to all its glory.

 

Recess in the Salón de los Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors)

 

The Generalife, Granada

Adjacent to the Alhambra is the Generalife, the summer palace of the Nasrid rulers of Al-Andalus with its splendid gardens, and this is the subject of part 3 of my Alhambra photo-series.

The Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Long Pond) at the Generalife

Fountains in the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Long Pond) at the Generalife

Flowers in the Patio de la Acequia (Court of the Long Pond) at the Generalife

Archway carving at the Generalife

Gallery at the Generalife

Fountain and pool in Patio del Ciprés de la Sultana at the Generalife

Looking out from the Generalife towards the Alhambra

As with the Alhambra palaces, patience is key when visiting the Generalife; it seems near impossible to access it at a quite time so the best advice is to go in (you can only enter once by the way, multiple visits are not permitted) and to simply wait for breaks in the crowd.  In one of these rare moments you can then view and fully appreciate the gardens and buildings without trying to look over or around someone else.

My wife and I used the same trick in the palaces; simply hang back and let the flow of people pass you by.  It amazed my how quickly people moved through the palace complex; a click of the camera here and there and they were off to the next room leaving one to wonder how many visitors to the Alhambra actually see it, rather than just glance, point and shoot?

The palace rooms are places to linger, to allow oneself to be consumed by the detail and exquisiteness of the architecture and craftsmanship and to imagine them as they once were at their most opulent; to move through them in a manner that lacks in focus or concentration and as though one is in a great rush to reach the end is perverse: why bother going at all?

Before I finish I implore you to do one thing should you visit the palaces: sit on the floor and look around you.  You may get some odd looks but who really cares about that?  What you will also get, however, is a great perspective of the buildings; the Nasrid rulers would have filled the floors with cushions and sat on them and so you get to experience the rooms as they may have done, to a degree at least.

Islamic tiles in the Alhambra, Granada

This post forms the second part of the series relating to the Alhambra, Granada, displaying photographs taken by my wife and I during our holidsy there last September; this time we look at Islamic tiles, giving examples of the vibrant tilework that adorns many parts of the the palace complex:

Islamic tiles with inscription above

Stunning, fluid design

Bold colour in this strong design

So which one is the Circle Line then?

Incredible intricacy and precision

Another example of the intricacy and precision achieved in the tilework

Tilework sitting below equally detailed carving

Hypnotic pattern

I find these tiles truly amazing; the quality of the craftsmanship is mind-boggling and can only be aspired to in any work of art or design.  As a gardener I find the geometrical patterns a source of inspiration from a design and layout perspective, as too are the bold colours used throughout.

Alhambra, Granada and the Mezquita-Catedral, Cordoba

There are many places in the world that one would wish to go but that one may never have the opportunity to do so: Persepolis, Sana’a, the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa province of Pakistan …

Fortunately for my wife and I one of the places we have considered visiting for some time, the Alhambra, can now be removed from the wish list; in September we spent a week in Granada, ostensibly to see the Alhambra, but we did also make the journey to Córdoba and to the Mezquita-Catedral.

This post forms the first of a series displaying a handful of the 600 or so photos that were taken on our visit.  I shall begin with a couple of views of the Alhambra and of the surrounding area that was visible from the roof terrace of the wonderful apartment in which we stayed in Sacromonte; later posts will show some of the amazing tilework and architecture, the gardens, and a few shots of the Mezquita-Catedral in Cordoba, a truly inspiring site but one that left me feeling slightly angry and appalled (all shall be revealed!).  So here we go, the first set of photographs:

A full view of the Alhambra looking across from Sacromonte

A close up view of the Alhambra looking at the Palace of Charles V and the tower within which is the The Hall of the Two Sisters (Sala de Dos Hermanas)

Looking down the valley from Sacromonte towards the centre of Granada and hills beyond

Looking up the valley from our roof terrace

Roof tops of Granada

I think that the next set will be of the tiles, the craftsmanship of which is astonishing and only bettered by the intricacy of the architecture in which I could happily sit and loose myself for many an hour.

Natural Splendour #7

One of my favourite images from the past year:

 

hanging around

Putting the Dahlias to bed

The relatively warm weather through November and the start of December has meant that the Dahlias have kept going longer than might otherwise have been expected; the first frost was only experienced at the end of the first week of December, the Dahlias blackening under the touch of icy fingers.

Dahlia after the frost

Dahlia tubers will continue to grow until the first frost, after which the choice is either to lift or to mulch.  This year we will lift and store the Dahlias; though planted in a raised bed, this part of the garden can suffer severe flooding during the winter months so the risk in leaving them in the ground is not worth taking as they will likely rot.

Dahlias cut back and ready to be lifted

Use a fork to gently loosen the soil around the tuber and lift the clump, tapping off the soil.  Place the tubers upside down in a crate to allow the water to drain fully from the hollow stems, and leave in this position for about week.  Ensure that they are not left somewhere where rodents can get to them and that they are not left anywhere frosty.

Can you tell what it is? Tubers galore!

After a week place them a box or crate and cover in old compost, coir or vermiculite, keeping the crowns uncovered.  They must be dry but not left to dry out completely, so check the once every few weeks and give them a light watering if ncecessary.  Store them in the dark, again in a frost and rodent free place.

Having dried them, and before packing them away for the wtiner, you can divide the tubers or they can be left in a clumo to divide in the spring.

When done properly, digging and dividing will keep your dahlias returning year after year.  Dahlias left in the ground will create a massive tuber clump underground that will send up many weak, unproductive stalks that have small blooms. Eventually these won’t come back at all.

Dividing Dahlias
Tap and brush all the soil off the dahlia clump. When dividing dahlias, the first thing to do is to remove all broken tubers, remove the original ‘mother’ tuber and remove any tubers that are rotten. You can divide now or keep the cleaned-up clump in tact and divide in the spring. In the spring, the eyes are easier to see. It’s very important to get a piece of the swollen part that is attached to last years’ stem and from which the eyes will emerge.  If your tuber does not have an eye, it will not sprout. Choose only strong, firm tubers. Weak tubers that show signs of rot, shriveling or decay should be tossed and not used in the garden.

Cut surfaces should be allowed to dry thoroughly before they are planted in the garden or stored for the winter. Lay out to dry for 3-5 days in a place that will not freeze, then store for the winter.

In the Spring

Another advantage of lifting Dahlias is that they can be potted up in early spring and with a little heat and protection forced into producing new shoots that can be taken for cuttings.  These should root very quickly if cut off from the junction of the tuber when they are about 7cm (3in) long; do this every year and you’ll have a vast store of Dahlias to brighten your garden late into the year.

If using this approach, the cuttings should be ready to plant out in about July, whilst the parent plant should can go outside in mid-May, or once the risk of frost has passed.  If you choose not to take cuttings in this way then the overwintered tuber can be planted out in early April in good rich soil and at a depth of about 15cm (6in).

The result will hopefully be this:

Dahlia 'Rip City'

Christmas wreaths

So where have I been these past few weeks I hear you ask? There certainly have been few blog posts to keep you entertained so I must be up to something; what could it be?

The Studio, where Christmas magic occurs

I’ve mentioned elsewhere that my wife is a florist (Florist in the Forest); now ordinarily I have nothing to do with her work other than building her raised beds, constructing elaborate dahlia support structures, pruning the roses, planting, weeding, propagating … not a great deal really.  But at this time of year I like to offer a little extra help where I may and it so happens that I am a dab hand at making Christmas wreaths, even if I do say so myself.

A chillie and cinnamon wreath

The wreath making season begins in earnest at the very start of December and doesn’t really stop until Christmas Eve when we both collapse in an exhausted heap, more than ready for a well deserved break!  If we could we would sleep for a week but then we’d miss out on Christmas dinner, seasonal tipples, and the Doctor Who Cristmas Special!!

A dried whole oranges wreath

When I started making wreaths a few years ago I used to get frustrated at what I felt was my lack of creative ability; now, however, I have no such frustration and enjoy the whole creative process and making each wreath unique and special.

Dried orange slices, holly berries, and cinnamon

I pay tribute to my wife because she works extremely hard and at Christmas I get a little taste of how hard she works the whole year round.

A frosty morning

Last night was the first really cold night that we have had this winter, down to about -5oc or so.  It seems odd to be writing such a thing on the 10th December when ordinarily the cold weather would have well and truly set in and plants would not be sending forth new flower buds; but then the weather of the last few weeks has been anything but normal.

I’ve been looking foward to the onset of frosts and sunny, clear days for some time; I prefer this kind of proper winter weather far more than I do the cloudy, not-warm-but-not-cold days that we’ve been experiencing lately, so this morning I went out with the camera to capture the work of a million ice crystals and more.

Frosted Hydrangea

Skimmia

Leaves of a climbing rose

Saliva involucrata 'Joan'

Seed head

Skimmia

Lovely leaves

There’s nothing quite like the colour of Autumn leaves but better than this is the great pile of them now gathered to hopefully make a fine mulch next winter or Spring 2013.

 

Leaf pile

 

In the meantime I have no leaf mulch of my own so will be popping into the woods across the road, clearing back the leaves from around the old oaks, and digging out some of the leaf mulch that has been gathering there, untouched, for many a year.  This will be dug into the vegetable beds and used for mulching the borders; hopefully the results will be plenty of vigorous growth throughout next year.